My 2013 Silverado 5.3L has almost 260K miles (very dirty). I unstuck my # 6 intake lifter and installed the VLOM plug and removed the gaskets for the towers. Now, after a few hundred miles, I have a misfire on that cylinder again but no ticking. I would like to replace the lifters but don't want to buy the full delete kit or deal with the cam. If the factory cam is good, can I just replace the lifters, keeping the AFM style lifters, etc. but have the VLOM plug in place and ECM tuned? Thank you in advance! Here's my plan:
Replace lifters with OE lifters
Replace lifter guides
Replace rods (original ones were nasty - caked-on carbon, etc.)
Do you recommend replacing the valve stem seals? Or, is there anything else I should look at or do while I have the heads off?
Thank you so much for all your videos and knowledge! I have learned so much!
I am going to hijack this thread for a minute as I am in a similar situation.
2010 Silverado had a collapsed lifter and we replaced all the lifters and new VLOM then we re assembled the truck and cylinder 1 had both AFM lifters colapse :( then I came across the cpr tool and was able to save the lifters without taking the truck back down sure wish I would have found this out first on the delete
Currently the ecm is in transit to LT1swap for AFM delete
and a CPR VLOM plug is on its way to me
After installing the plug do I plug back in the VLOM as the program is deleted or leave it unplugged?
I don't recommend replacing OEM lifters and maintaining the AFM system. This is simply because of how often they can rotate from a bad plastic guide. With that said, if you do decide to move forward it's going to be fairly costly. The AFM lifters cost around $50-60 each and there is 8 of them. Then gaskets, bolts and etc. Plus heads should definitely be gone through. New seals, valve job and resurface the head gasket surface.
As far as once you pull the head. I recommend pulling all lifters out and inspecting the rollers prior to ordering parts. If you see any roller damage like pitting, flat spots etc the camshaft will also be damaged. You might be tempted to look at the cam through lifter hole and think it's fine even with a damaged roller. But believe me, it's a optical illusion that it looks good. If roller is damaged so is the camshaft, no exception.
Anyway, hopefully your project goes smoothly and if you end up needing to delete the AFM mechanically I have what you need. Also, you mentioned pushrods. If you want an upgrade from stock I also have those available as well. A 2013 is going to be LS based so it will be the 7.400" performance pushrod on my website. If you need anything else feel free to reach out.