#7 Intake collapsed lifter. 2012 5.3 Sierra with Al block

I know I responded to your PM, but for anyone else who may come across this I'll answer again here.

The CPR-007 was discontinued. This happened after I started making the CPR-001 out of W1 tool steel. (The CPR-003 comes with CPR-001 and VLOM plug. This is the recommended kit.) This tool steel even without hardening has the ability to transfer energy just as good as the previously hardened mild steel the CPR-007 was made out of. This is still somehow possible while leaving the tool soft so it prevents damage to the lifter. The only drawback to the annealed W1 is it can bend fairly easily if you hit it at an angle. So like when pounding a nail into wood you have to kit it square. The one plus is you can also straighten it fairly easy as well because of this. It's also important to remind readers, if you have a stubborn lifter or you use the tool for multiple vehicles it's important to pull the tool out, inspect the top, and file the mushrooming effect accordingly. Lastly, don't forget the most effective way to release lifters seems to be with the use of high frequency hammering. A perfect example of this would be with the use of a needle scaler like I do in my videos. I've had people use cheap harbor freight short barrel air hammers, hammer drill with locked open drill chuck while holding tool with vice grips, even heard of folks using side of a blade on a vibrating multi-tool.

Remember, no matter how you attempt your lifter release, never let the tool rotate while you're hitting it. Far too many people have hit it with the tool in wrong position. This will damage the tool in a way that will likely get it stuck in the oil tower. You will then have to force it out and clean any debris left in the hole. Then you will also need to clean up the burrs on the tool prior to attempting again.

Best of luck on everyone's lifter release and if you need anything I'm usually able to respond to PMS relatively quick.