I pulled some injectors from a L59 flex fuel 5.3l from a 2006 Suburban. When I got home and was cleaning them, I realized they are a bit taller than my original injectors. These are part number 12580426. On the TOP of the injector, above the upper oring, most lifters have a little "metal shelf" or lip that I'm assuming is used to help keep the oring in place, however these do NOT have that metal lip, but instead have a really small groove, and a small plastic bit that snaps into it, that acts like the metal lip on others. I damaged the plastic ring on this set when changing the tiny filters. I don't know the name of this ring to buy new ones. Can someone PLEASE help me figure out the name of this little plastic ring?

Good day, I'm working on my 2000 silverado 4x4. I've swapped to an iron block "LS2" and still have the 4l60e stock Trans. This setup has been together and running before, as-I'd, however due to the poor tempering of the cheap valve springs I got off Amazon, I dropped a valve. So motor was pulled apart, cylinder sleeved, new piston installed, new TSP Double Valve springs, and I'm off topic. My point is, this motor, crank, bellowing, torque converter, and flexolate setup all fit together... None of those parts have been changed... Here's my actual questions/ issue. When reinstalling the engine this time, I forgot to check the TC was seated all the way back into the Trans before putting the engine in, however I had an 1/8" gap between the flywheel and converter, plus the converter spins freely so I didn't think anything if it. Kept bolting things on and went to do the starter and realized I forgot the TC bolts. So I started to install the TC bolts, and ad I tighten them up, instead of the TC moving forward to meet up with the flexplate, the flexplate actually flexed back to meet the TC. I've never seen that happen before. Every install I've ever done has the TC coming forward. So I'm wondering is anyone has seen the center hub of a TC NOT slide into the center of the crank, and instead get hung up slightly out of alignment??? I've never had that happen, but until now, I've never had valve springs snap either.. So. 1) Does anyone know how common it is for the TC not to seat correctly to the crank, or is it even possible? (The TC bolts lined up fine with the holes in the flexplate, so it has to be pretty well aligned to center). 2) is there a way to check the cooling pump is working CORRECTLY once I get things running? I don't have a Trans temp gauge, but I'm wondering if I could pull a Trans line and see how much fluid is moving maybe? 3) Anybody else ever seen the TC "stay" and the flexplate "flex" to meet the TC?

I have a 2000 silverado with 5.3l LM7.... Swapping it with slightly hopped up 6.0L... I currently have the P01 Drive By Cable Non_Flex fuel ECU.... I want to add flex fuel to it, but keep the Drive By Cable... I found that a Stock 2002 Tahoe had the E85 Option... It's also the P01 ECU... So I'm going to flash my ECU with that config... What I don't know is this.... Did the 2002 Tahoe with Flex Fuel come with a Drive by Wire or Drive By Cable? Final part... Does anyone know if Flex Fuel RAIL pressure is Different than Gas? Does the Flex Fuel Sensor tell the pump to make more pressure? Amswer what you can please. Thanks.

I'm building this new 6.0l LS for my 2000 silverado... I may put a turbo on the motor in the future, so i've order a through hole AN8 or AN10 fitting that put in my oil pan... I'm just not sure where people put them in the pan so that it clears other stuff, like the AC, Cross Member, Starter, Oil Cooler Lines, or Power Steering Pump.... Any Ideas where the Turbo oil drain should go at please let me know.... Thanks.

Ok. So I'm pulling the 5.3L out of my 2000 Silverado Z71 ext cab. And Swapping in an LQ4 that's been upgraded a bit. Im not 100% Sure of the year block, but I know it's a gen3. I pulled it from an 04 Yukon Denali, but after getting it home, and apart, it's clearly been swapped in that truck before. So the year is unknown. I know the LS 6.0s had some different crank to flywheel spacer lengths. I'm wondering if you know what the 2000 5.3l would be and how I should measure this one to see if I need to remove the spacer that's currently installed, or if I can run it as is. I'd like to remove the spacer before installing the rear cover, and like to find if it fits before just trying to dump it in the truck. Also, the 5.3l isn't out yet. I want to button this block up before making a new mess pulling the 5.3. Question 2.. Do you know what the specs are for LS Main Bearing clearance. Mine plastigauges at 0.0015... I can't seem to find a decent spec for this... My old SBC knowledge would tell me for a 2.5" Main, it should be 0.0025... Any wisdom? Thanks

I have an 03 LQ4 with pressed pins. I'm wondering if LQ9 bushed Pistons would work with my rods, using them as pressed.. I had one company selling Pistons say it would, but since the piston pin is different diameters, Im not sure if it would. Would bushed pins just slide in and work using the clips, or would the pressed pins work on the bushed Pistons.. Anyone know. Thanks

So I have an 09 Silverado Hybrid with Alum 6.0l LSM Engine. I'm wondering if I disable the DOD using HP Tuners, would the VLOM plug still be required? So my question is really this. If you disable the DOD in the ECU, then what is the purpose of the plug after that? Could I just disable the DOD in the ECU as "Preventive Maintenance"to keep the issue from ever occurring? Truth be told, mine already has the lifter issue, and hopefully I can get it to release, but with this truck being a hybrid, getting access to ANYTHING on the passengers side is a nightmare. There's NO room at all. Even getting the spark plug wires off the coil packs is a complete bitch. I just want to get it running again, ensure the issue don't come back, and sell it. I don't have A lot of time, and don't fully understand why the plug needs to be there if DOD is turned off??? Thanks James