I tried using the release method , no luck , ended up pulling R side head to replace the lifters. I am just wondering what's the best , most reliable brand to go with? #4 intake Lifter was broken, 82K miles on it, cup that holds the spring on broke off at it's base. I am probably going with GM 12698946 lifters, seems to be updated part # from my original. Most likely I am going to buy HPTuner to turn off the AFM. Still on the fence about replacing the non AFM lifters, probably will just because I'm there. Too much work for my old arse to keep doin over and over, been wrenchin for 40yrs....lol
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To see this working, head to your live site.
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OK, finally got back to this, it was also throwing a p219b code, fuel trim imbalance bank 2, not misfiring, just slightly rough idle. Did some research on that code, found it's usually bad injector on that bank, so I ran inj balance test, #6 reading was way higher than the rest. They were super hard to get out the first time, probably damaged that one in the process. Ordered new rail and all 4 injectors for that bank. I had to take the fuel rail back out to read the injectors part number of what was installed on the vehicle so they can match it up (wish I knew this when I had it apart the first time), they have to be the same flow rate. Anyway I pulled the VLOM back out, and first thing I did was test it like you showed in the video, and 6 and 4 were leaking like crazy! I had already sliced the aluminum plug I purchased from here, and my VLOM did have 2 steps just like the one in your video. It was pretty tight going in, but just kept smacking it! It was just like in your video, tested it, and it was still leaking tiny bit, hit it a few more times and no more leak! I then started to cut the seals, and my box cutter knife wasn't doing too good, and I didn't really see the need at this point , so I left them. I had precut the vlom plug before I even tried it but it definitely needed to be cut! seems to be running smoother, doesn't feel like it's fighting itself (vlom mod), and I trust that it shouldn't be happening again any time soon. So far just drove it home from the shop (work) and no codes so far!
Sorry for the late delay, I got a new phone and it hasn't been giving me notifications. Anyway, that's no excuse on with the topic...
Replacing the lifter doesn't solve the lifter failure problem, the lifters fail because they lack oil pressure or are getting oil pressure when they shouldn't causing them to bind. In your particular case I'm guessing this is a direct injected motor. This means you are most likely getting pressure when you shouldn't. If that's the case because the VLOM has gone bad, then you will want to put my VLOM plug in and turn the system off in the tune permanently. With the exception of California that is of question recently, It's better to turn off the system in the tune. They won't be checking the actual tune file. It seems there is a recent change to California rules that may threaten this theory though. I have a couple of people who are trying to work on finding out if this will affect the folks in California. Hopefully you're not one that is from California. If you are, what are you doing? Run like hell!!!
Got her back together with the GM lifters, all is well, quiet as a mouse, ended up replacing all of them on bank 2. Right now, just using an off brand OBD afm disabler. I would like to know for sure if it's tampering or not to disable the afm at the programming level. I am in an area where I have to get tested, so I am going to do some checking into that, "for sure" where I live!